Buying a 2nd, or 6th hand L322, What I’d look for.

Buying a Second-Hand L322: What I’d Look for Now

There’s something undeniably tempting about the idea of buying an old Range Rover L322. They’re stylish, capable, and when set up right, surprisingly good off-road. You get air suspension, a proper low-range transfer box, and serious comfort on the road. Best of all? Prices have dropped to the point where you can find them for less than the cost of a new tent.

But let’s be honest. That same price tag is what gets most people in trouble. “I bought a £2,000 L322 and took it green laning and it broke” isn’t a story. It’s a cautionary tale of stupidity.

The L322 is not a vehicle you can ignore. It rewards care, maintenance, and mechanical sympathy. And if you’re looking to buy one now, with the idea of building it into a proper overlander, here’s what I’d look for based on experience, miles, money, and mistakes.

Know Your Engines

The L322 had several engines during its run from 2002 to 2012:

• BMW M62 V8 (4.4 petrol) – Smooth but thirsty, complex to work on

• BMW M57 (3.0 diesel) – Arguably the most robust and DIY-friendly of the lot

• Jaguar AJ-V8 (4.4 & 4.2 SC petrol) – Powerful, but more electrical complexity

• TDV8 (3.6 & later 4.4) – Incredible torque, great for towing, but expensive when they go wrong

My advice? The 3.0 M57 diesel is a strong choice for overlanding. It’s simpler, more economical, and well-understood by independent specialists. I currently run the later TDV8, and while it’s been brilliant with regular servicing, it demands more vigilance.

Key Areas to Inspect Before You Buy

Whether you're shopping privately, from a dealer, or at auction, bring a torch, a code reader, and your best poker face. These trucks hide things well, so here’s where to start:

1. Suspension: Airbags & Compressors

The air suspension is both a blessing and a headache. When it works, it’s brilliant. When it doesn’t, you’re bouncing home in access mode.

• Listen for the compressor — is it running constantly?

• Check if the vehicle sinks overnight (classic airbag leak)

• Look at the ride height — is it level on all corners?

• Any fault lights? Suspension inactive?

Expect: Replacement airbags every 80k+ miles. Compressor should be quiet and efficient. Glenrands always checks for dry rot or cracking in the bags before trips.

2. Gearbox & Transfer Case

Most people ignore gearbox servicing, especially with sealed units. That’s a mistake.

• Check shift quality — any hesitation, harsh changes, or flaring?

• Listen for whines or clunks when accelerating and decelerating

• Inspect underneath for leaks from the gearbox pan

Ideally: Gearbox oil changed every 20k miles, transfer case every 20k, and diffs every 10k (yes, really). That’s my regime. Excessive? Maybe. Effective? Absolutely.

3. Electrical Systems

It’s a Range Rover. There will be electrical quirks. But there’s a difference between a lazy boot lock and a failing Body Control Module.

• Check every window, lock, mirror, seat, and light

• Make sure the 4x4 info screen works (terrain sensors can fail)

• Look at the dash — any warning lights?

• Run diagnostics if you can. Glenrands always scans everything after a service

Watch for water ingress around the rear boot, passenger side, It’s a common failure point where the tailgate seal leaks.

4. Rust

Yes, even on these. Especially around:

• Rear wheel arches, they all start to go there.

• Sills and jacking points

• Tailgate lower edges

• Rear subframe mounts

• Also check the older vehicle’s subframes, there are 3 of them, the rear one is prone to rusting.

Surface rust is manageable. Structural rust is a dealbreaker unless you want a full rebuild.

5. Cooling System

Overheating is a known killer of older L322s.

• Inspect hoses, radiator, expansion tank for signs of leaks or repairs

• Watch temperature on the dash during the test drive

• Coolant should be clean, not oily or murky

Upgraded radiators and silicone hoses are a good investment if you're planning hot weather travel.

6. Interior Wear

Not critical mechanically, but it tells you a lot about how the car’s been treated.

• Sagging headliner? Mine is leather, many later Autobiography vehicle have them.

• Cracked leather?

• Broken cupholders, dead pixels on the screen?

• Just check the overall condition

These aren’t dealbreakers, but they give you negotiation leverage. The way I look at car interiors, if the have been badly abused, dirty, stained, ripped, can bet your bottom dollar the rest of the car has been abused too. Walk away.

What to Budget For (Even If It Seems Fine Now)

If you're buying a second-hand L322 with the idea of travelling, not just pottering around town, here's what I would assume you'll need to replace or upgrade within the first year:

• Air suspension bags: £200-400 a pair

• Gearbox flush + filter: £250-400

• Transfer case + diff oils: £150+

• Battery: £200+ (they don’t like low voltages)

• Front control arms: £200-300 (common wear point)

• General inspection + minor fixes: £500 buffer

So yes, you can buy the vehicle for £4,000-6,000, but expect to put at least another £1,500-2,500 into getting it ready for serious use. And that’s assuming the big-ticket items are healthy.

What Glenrands Taught Me

Glenrands know L322s inside out. They’ve helped me keep mine on the road, through big trips, and proper use. Here’s what I’ve picked up from working with them:

• Don’t skip diagnostics. Even if everything feels fine.

• Use genuine or OEM parts. Cheap bushings, sensors, or filters will fail faster and cost more in the long run.

• If you’re planning a trip, book a pre-trip inspection. Check ball joints, air springs, brakes, fluids, bushings, and all mounts.

• Change your fluids regularly. More than the handbook says. It’s what keeps things alive.

They treat every Range Rover like it’s going 3,000 miles tomorrow — and that’s why mine still does.

Red Flags When Buying

• Seller has no service history

• Dashboard lights are on (or off but bulbs pulled, older models)

• Dashboard lights on the digital dash versions.

• Suspension already in access mode or leaning

• Loud clunks when changing gear

• Coolant smell in cabin

• DPF or EGR deleted with no paperwork

• It’s been ‘chipped’ but no supporting mods

• Interior has been abused, ripped seats, trim, smells, fluids have been spilled.

If you spot any of these, walk away or price it accordingly.

Final Thoughts

The L322 is not the easiest 4x4 to own. But it might be one of the best when looked after properly. If you’re the kind of person who respects machinery, enjoys the process of making a vehicle your own, and wants something that can cruise the motorway and crawl the mountains in equal measure — the L322 is worth a serious look.

Just go in with your eyes open.

Don’t fall for the bargain that needs £5,000 in repairs. Don’t cheap out on parts. Don’t ignore warning signs.

And if you get one that’s solid, service it properly, and drive it like it matters? You’ll have something really special. A vehicle that will take you deep into the Iberian Peninsula, across Alpine passes, and through Scottish glens. With a bit of class, a lot of comfort, and the satisfaction of knowing you built it right.

That’s what makes the L322, when done right, one of the most underrated overlanding platforms out there.

So yes — I’d buy one again. And now you know exactly what I’d check first.